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Wednesday, February 19, 2014

Workshop Wednesday: Alcohol Ink Tiles




I recently discovered the joy of working with alcohol inks. For those of you who have never dabbled with alcohol inks but have tossed the idea around, or if are unfamiliar with what they are, this post is definitely for you.

 These particular inks that i'm using are called Adirondack Alcohol Inks by Tim Holtz. 

For my upcoming tutorial - next week - I am going to show you how easy it is to create unique and completely custom tile art. 

Here are a few projects I created on tiles using the alcohol inks:


As you can see in the photos above, you can make extremely detailed pieces - featuring landscapes and seascapes - however, it if that is not your thing, you can also create awesome abstracts. There are a wide variety of colors available, so it is easy to match any style or decor in your home.

So, that's pretty much what has been going on in my workshop for now. Be sure to check back next week for a full tutorial on creating your own alcohol ink tile art!






Tuesday, February 11, 2014

Tutorial Tuesday: MTG (Magic the Gathering) Deck Box


 What better way to kick off my art blog in one of the most nerdy ways that I possibly could. Today I am going to show you how I created a Magic the Gathering deck box using a pre-constructed box and materials you can find at your local craft store.

This box doesn't have to be just for Magic the Gathering, you can apply the same technique for most trading card games.

 For convenience, this tutorial will be broken down into three separate parts. The first for the construction/modification of the deck box. Next up I will show you how I created a custom abicus style life counter. Then to wrap things up, custom chipboard dividers to organize cards. 

Let's get started!


Supplies for this portion:
* Box
* Craft Plywood
* Pencil
* Craft Acrylic Paint
* Saw
* Tacky Glue




# 1 - This is the box I will be using. I found it at a local craft store for around 10 dollars.

#2 - Take inner dimensions of the box. We are going to make a divider.

#3 & #4 - Mark dimensions from number two on a piece of craft plywood

# 5 - Using a craft saw, I begin to cut the craft plywood down to size. Use caution and work on a stable surface with protection when cutting any sort of material.

#6 - Make sure the divider fits in the box. You want it to be snug.






#7 &  #8 - Next, we are going to notch the corners to look like what you will see in figure # 8. This will allow for the box to close easily.

#9 & #10 - Using craft acrylic, begin to pain the surface starting with the lighter color. I used burnt sienna and raw umber.

#11 & #12 - After you coat the entire piece with the lighter color, I then use raw umber to darken the edges. Dry brush a little amount each time, using layers if necessary to achieve desired results. I wanted the pieces to look aged / worn like the box I purchased.







#13 - After painting, your end result should be something to this effect. However, change/adapt this portion to best suit the box you choose to customize.

#14 - Place divider in box, and mark with a pencil where you want it to line up.

#15 - Add a layer of glue to the sides and bottom. I used a tacky glue for this portion.

#16 - Place divide in box, and wipe away any excess glue right away! You don't want to have little glue globs all over your box.






Supplies for this portion:
* Craft Plywood / Strips
* Pencil
* Grid Ruler
* Craft Acrylic Paint
* Saw
* Tacky Glue
* Tim Holtz Corners
* Metal Rods (model train supply)
* Wood Beads
* Hand Drill





#17 & #18 - Cut craft plywood pieces down to size to fit inside the box (similar to the divider we created in the first section). Using the same paint technique, paint all the pieces.  Cut down a metal rod to size (inner dimensions of life counter, plus an extra 1/8th of an inch). That way it will fit into the holes we will be drilling, and not be too short.

#19 - Using a grid ruler, find the center point and make an indent using the metal rod -- this is where I will be drilling holes. Repeat this for top and bottom on each side piece.

#20 & #21 - Using a hand drill, I make two holes, but DO NOT go all the way through, only go about half way, that way the rods will not slip out.

#22 - Test to make sure the rods fit in each hole.



#23 & #24 - Make sure that everything fits together, some minor adjustments may be necessary.

#25 - Add small amounts of tacky glue to one end of each rod, and then place into one the side pieces. Wipe off any excess glue

#26 - Count out 20 beads, and begin to put 10 on each rod.

#27 - Place small amounts of glue on the end of the rods that are still exposed, and attach the second side piece. Using the glue, adhere counter to base.

#28 - Finish gluing each side to base, and let dry.







#29, #30 & #31 - Using Tim Holtz Corners, we are going to apply tacky glue and then place on the outside of the life counter box.

#32 - Repeat the process so you have four corners attached to the life counter box. Let dry.

Note: Bead sizes vary, after creating the life counter, I realized I probably could have used smaller beads. I only have about 1 bead length of wiggle room to slide on the counter, so keep that in mind. My friends and I only play casually, so it doesn't really matter in my case, but some people might not like how close the beads are.







Supplies for this portion:
* Chipboard Sheet
* Pencil
* Ruler
* Craft Acrylic Paint
* Scissors




#33 & #34 - Using chipboard, mark the inner dimensions of your box (width and height) on the chipboard.

#35 & #36 - I used a template for the tab top portion of the dividers, I only want three dividers for my box.

 As you can see there are 'x' marks above where I'm marking the tabs. You won't use these sections. Since you are cutting the tab top, those pieces would not work as a divider.

#37 - Cut out dividers using scissors.

#38 - I wanted the same wood look to match the box, so I painted these using the same technique and colors we used throughout. 

IMPORTANT NOTE: When you paint the dividers, BE SURE to paint both sides. The chip board WILL warp if you do not paint both sides. However, if you paint both sides the warping will be eliminated.  Easy enough, but also a very important step.




#39 & #40 - Putting it all together. As you can see you can fit deck boxes, life counter, dice (counters or tokens), dividers, and additional Magic the Gathering cards in the box.

You can also opt out of using the deck boxes, and store cards/decks by utilizing the dividers.

Configure the box to best suit your gaming needs.

It is a super easy way to store your cards in a container other than the cardboard standards.

Also, if you choose you can embellish the outside of your box to fit your own personal style.









Thank you so much for following the tutorial. If you have any questions, by all means feel free to ask in the comment section, and I will respond as soon as I can.



There will also be a Youtube companion video to go with this tutorial, so you can actually watch the process step by step. I hope to have it uploaded by the end of this week.



Hope that you decide to create your very own Magic the Gathering (or any trading card game) deck box.

Friday, February 7, 2014

Favorites Friday: Bic Mark-It's



As all artists know, art supplies can be are expensive! Unfortunately it can sometimes be hard to find an item that is both fits the budget, but above all performs spectacularly.This proves to be particularly true when it comes to markers.

Art markers come in a variety of forms, whether you use Copic, Prismacolor, or Chartpak to name just a few. By the time you get your primary colors, you already dropped a pretty penny towards these supplies and still don't have all the colors you want. Now, I'm not discrediting these products in any way, as I use them, and each serves it's own purpose!

However, one of the markers that I go to the most are the Bic Mark-It's. I find these markers to be very affordable, and provide exceptional quality. They come in a great array of colors, and if you get the 36 pack, you are going to be all set!

The main feature that initially caught my attention is that they are marketed as acid-free, which for this price point is phenomenal. This is particularly important, because overtime it's not going to fade or discolor. Whatever you create with these markers will last. I have art pieces I made several years ago, and they still look just as great today as they did the day that I created it. 

Another great feature for the type of art that I do, is that these markers handle layers well. I was able to create multiple layers and blend without colors bleeding or smudging. They worked exactly how I wanted and intended them to do. One thing that impressed me right away was how they work with other art markers.  I had no issues combing these markers when using other brands.

Now, this is not an official review of the product by any means. It's just me... telling you... what I like about it. Everyone has different applications and needs for how they want their supplies to perform. So as with anything, you may not get the same results. I, however, have always been extremely satisfied with this product, and give credit where credit is deserved. With that being said, I hope you will give them a try!